Pruning

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_custom_heading text=”Pruning” font_container=”tag:h2|text_align:left|color:%23c37186″ google_fonts=”font_family:Roboto%3A100%2C100italic%2C300%2C300italic%2Cregular%2Citalic%2C500%2C500italic%2C700%2C700italic%2C900%2C900italic|font_style:700%20bold%20regular%3A700%3Anormal”][vc_custom_heading text=”Why Prune?” font_container=”tag:h3|text_align:left” google_fonts=”font_family:Roboto%3A100%2C100italic%2C300%2C300italic%2Cregular%2Citalic%2C500%2C500italic%2C700%2C700italic%2C900%2C900italic|font_style:700%20bold%20regular%3A700%3Anormal”][vc_column_text]

• Create and maintain strong structure.
• Produce a healthy tree with a functional and pleasing form by removing as little live tissue at any one time.
• To maintain size.
• To improve flowering or fruiting.

[/vc_column_text][vc_custom_heading text=”Basic Tools” font_container=”tag:h3|text_align:left” google_fonts=”font_family:Roboto%3A100%2C100italic%2C300%2C300italic%2Cregular%2Citalic%2C500%2C500italic%2C700%2C700italic%2C900%2C900italic|font_style:700%20bold%20regular%3A700%3Anormal”][vc_column_text]

• Pruning shears, bypass or anvil. Bypass is best, less damage to tree. Shears prune up to ó” branch.
• Pruning loppers. Use for larger branches.
• Pruning saws. Use for larger branches.
• Hedging shears.

[/vc_column_text][vc_custom_heading text=”Types of Cuts” font_container=”tag:h3|text_align:left” google_fonts=”font_family:Roboto%3A100%2C100italic%2C300%2C300italic%2Cregular%2Citalic%2C500%2C500italic%2C700%2C700italic%2C900%2C900italic|font_style:700%20bold%20regular%3A700%3Anormal”][vc_column_text]

• Reduction cuts. These are also called heading cuts.
• Removal cuts. These are also called thinning cuts.

[/vc_column_text][vc_custom_heading text=”Biology of Pruning” font_container=”tag:h3|text_align:left” google_fonts=”font_family:Roboto%3A100%2C100italic%2C300%2C300italic%2Cregular%2Citalic%2C500%2C500italic%2C700%2C700italic%2C900%2C900italic|font_style:700%20bold%20regular%3A700%3Anormal”][vc_column_text]

• Pruning causes injury and generates a wound response in a plant, but a good pruning cut will allow the plant to heal itself.
  • Wound dressings generally only stimulate the economy—use them if they make you feel better.
• Cells at a cut come alive to close the wound. During cold weather these active cells can be injured.
• Think of plants as energy banks, with the energy stored in the branches, stems, trunk and roots.
• Pruning removes energy from the plant.
  • Improper pruning can make the energy bank considerably smaller.
  • With less energy stored, plant is more susceptible to other problems.
• Keep energy reserves high by removing the minimum amount of live tissue to accomplish your objective.

[/vc_column_text][vc_custom_heading text=”When to Prune” font_container=”tag:h3|text_align:left” google_fonts=”font_family:Roboto%3A100%2C100italic%2C300%2C300italic%2Cregular%2Citalic%2C500%2C500italic%2C700%2C700italic%2C900%2C900italic|font_style:700%20bold%20regular%3A700%3Anormal”][vc_column_text]

•  Don’t prune if you do not know why you are doing it.
• Picking the right tree for the location is the best strategy to minimize pruning.
• One annual pruning of trees in our climate is often adequate.
• More and more research suggests pruning while dormant in spring just before bud swell allows for maximum healing.
• Dead and diseased branches can be removed at any time.
• Summer pruning after leaves harden and are dark green is also OK, but not preferred. This will retard growth.
• Summer removal will slow root growth so do not prune heavily at this time.
• Regular, light pruning (removing < 10%) can be performed on most species at any time. This will promote fastest growth.
• It is better to remove a small amount of live foliage often than a lot all at once.
• For flowering trees/shrubs, remember that when pruning you reduce the number of branch tips, which reduces the number of flower buds or potential flowers.
• For flowering trees/shrubs, prune after flowering when leaves have hardened and are dark green but before new buds set.
• Most fruit trees are best pruned in late dormant season just prior to bud swell.
• Some light pruning in summer is OK for fruit trees.
• Pears and apricots are best pruned in late fall to minimize bacterial infection, especially fireblight.
• Maples and birches prune in winter to minimize bleeding, or sap ooze. Bleeding is not usually harmful.
• DO NOT PRUNE in late summer. This can produce a new flush of growth that is susceptible to frost damage.
• DO NOT PRUNE at transplanting! Removal of branches (unless damaged) reduces root initiation.

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•  Trees with excurrent growth habits generally require little pruning.
• Branches should be no larger than ó the trunk diameter to retain strength. Phased reduction cuts for large branches.
• If removing a branch, prune on the branch side of the branch bark collar.
• Branch reduction should be taken to another bud or branch. Cut tangential to bud or branch direction.
• Prune while leafless to give you a better view of the structure.
• Pruning increases the chances for surviving a drought by reducing leaves that transpire moisture. Not a good reason to prune.
• Prune for scaffold branches:
  • Adequate spacing 8 to 18” apart.
  • Branches should spiral around trunk.
  • Look for good crotch angles and strong unions. Prune out or correct, if possible, poorly angled branches.
•  Prune out crossing or rubbing branches. Select the best branch to keep, remove the other.
• On excurrent trees prune to single dominant leader.
• Let the pros handle it.

[/vc_column_text][vc_custom_heading text=”Shrubs” font_container=”tag:h3|text_align:left” google_fonts=”font_family:Roboto%3A100%2C100italic%2C300%2C300italic%2Cregular%2Citalic%2C500%2C500italic%2C700%2C700italic%2C900%2C900italic|font_style:700%20bold%20regular%3A700%3Anormal”][vc_column_text]

• Shrub pruning much simpler than tree pruning.
• No structural concerns, minimal risk of damage.
• Most shrubs pruned for people reasons, not horticultural reasons.
• The most common reasons to prune shrubs are to thin, and to maintain or reduce size.

[/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]Thinning:

• Remove all dead stems.
• Remove 1/3 of the older stems down to 4” to 6” long.

[/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]Maintaining Size:

• Reduce 1/3 of the longer stems down 6” to 24” inside the canopy.
• Repeat this process each year to maintain a uniform height.
• Allows shrub to maintain original and more natural form without a sheared appearance.

[/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]Reducing Size: 

• Cut longer stems deep down into the canopy.
• Leave some foliage intact to form the smaller canopy.
• Consider performing drastic reduction in size over 2 years, doing half the stems one year, the remainder the next year.

[/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]Renovating/Rejuvenating:

• Done on old plants, plants that have lost vigor, or plants that are too large for their site.
• Many shrubs can be cut nearly to the ground in spring to rejuvenate them. Will take a couple years to recover.
• Alternate method is to cut 3 oldest stems to the ground, thin/remove some younger stems. Repeat over 4-5 years.

[/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]Time of Year: 

• If pruning once/year and flowering is not a concern, do in early spring.
• Many flowering shrubs should be pruned after flowering if you want to have a flower show the next spring.
• It is OK to prune these shrubs anytime if you aren’t worried about the flowers.
• Heavy pruning or size reduction should be done in the early spring.

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• Little pruning generally needed on upright conifers due to excurrent structure.
• Leader pruning to a single leader is probably most common, very easy.
• Reduce or remove upright stems or branches to eliminate double leaders or co-dominant stems.
• Removal of lower branches is often done, branches are cut back to main trunk.
• Emerging candles can be pruned to slow growth rate and thicken tree. Do this after candling.
• Most junipers can be pruned anytime. For drastic pruning on branches with no live foliage, prune in spring just before new growth emerges. New growth will generally fill in.

* Information for this handout came from ‘An Illustrated Guide to Pruning’ by Edward F.Gilman, and ‘The Pruning Book’ by Lee Reich.[/vc_column_text][vc_btn title=”Download PDF” link=”url:https%3A%2F%2Flandonsgreenhouse.com%2Fwp%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2018%2F02%2FPruning.pdf||target:%20_blank|”][/vc_column][/vc_row]